Honey Madelines

Honey Madelines - Image Petrina Tinslay - Styling Geraldine Muñoz

Madeleines seem to be inexorably glued to one of the most annoying and anodyne clichés in literature. As soon as madeleines are mentioned some arse will say, ‘Ah, Proust!’ –
I think it makes them feel clever or maybe they are just being polite and inclusive. Anyway, whatever...while they are banging on you may get on with the job of delivering these beauties hot from the oven. Delicious by the dozen

nb: basic rule (if you want that fat little belly and a lovely golden colour [hint - you do] - the smaller the madeline the hotter the oven and vice versa

• 125 g salted butter

• zest of 1 lemon (Meyer for preference)

• 3 eggs (60 g)

• 130 g caster (superfine) sugar

• 30 g leatherwood honey

• 150 g plain (all-purpose) flour

• 5 g baking powder (fresh is best)

1. Melt the butter with the lemon zest and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs, sugar and honey until pale.

3. Sift the flour with the baking powder two or three times. Add it to the mixer and beat at high speed until very pale.

4. Turn the mixer to low speed and add the melted butter in a slow steady stream.

5. Transfer the mixture to a piping (icing) bag and refrigerate for at least 12 hours (preferably 24) before use.

6. Preheat the oven to 190°C *

7. Lightly butter a non-stick madeleine tin and dust it with flour, tapping the mould on a work surface to remove any excess.

8. Pipe each ‘shell’ two-thirds full. Place the tin in the oven and bake for 5–7 minutes until the centres rise like little volcanos and turn golden. 

9. These are best served immediately.

* Larger 8 cm madeleines cook best at 190°C and petite 3 cm madeleines are better
at 210°C but cooked for less time, which will give them a golden crust but not dry them out.

Kingfish Ham

Kingfish Ham - Image Petrina Tinslay - Styling Geraldine Muñoz

‘You had me at ham’

This fish, indigenous to the coastal waters of Australia, is properly known here as the yellowtail kingfish. But, in Australia, where nothing is called by its correct name, it’s also known – depending where you are from – as albacore, bandit, hoodlum, king amberjack, kingfish, kingie, silver king, southern yellowtail, Tasmanian yellowtail, yellowtail, yellowtail amberjack and hiramasa.

I don’t particularly think this fish cooks well**, but it is superb as sashimi, crudo, ceviche, tartare (I could go on) and for this type of application. 

This is beautiful with slices of ripe melon.

NB: the cold smoking method described below was for a kitchen with commercial ventilation. At home I suggest ‘the smoking gun’ or any one of the smokers now available for the domestic market.

** the collar and head are delicious exceptions to this statement

• 1 × 3–4 kg kingfish

• 100 g course salt per kg

• 80 g brown sugar per kg

• wood chips for smoking (hickory for preference)

1. Fillet and pin-bone the kingfish, leaving the skin on.

2. Mix the salt and sugar together in a bowl.

3. Take a tray the length of the fish and line it with plastic wrap, leaving enough overhang on all sides to wrap the fish. Place the two fish fillets on the tray side by side and cover each fillet with the salt and sugar cure.

4. Put the fillets on top of each other and wrap with the plastic wrap. Ensure that the fish is very tightly wrapped – another layer of plastic wrap may be required.

5. Leave the fish to cure in the refrigerator for 5–7 days, turning it each day so that it will cure evenly.

6. Once the fish has cured, carefully rinse it under cold running water and pat dry. Cut down the centre line to produce four fillets – two shoulder, two belly.

7. Put the fillets, flesh side up, on a wire rack over a tray and put on the top rack of a cold oven. Leave the oven door open.

8. Fill an old ovenproof frying pan, which will fit in the oven, with wood chips. Place the pan of wood chips over high heat until they catch fire. Once alight, carefully shake the pan to disperse the chips and allow even burning. Once all the wood chips are burning, carefully put another ovenproof pan of the same size over the top of the first pan to snuff out the flames.

9. Put the pans inside the oven on the bottom shelf. Remove the top frying pan and quickly close the oven door, trapping the smoke inside. Leave for 5 minutes or until all the smoke has dissipated. Repeat this process three times using fresh wood chips each time.

10. After smoking, wrap the fish in muslin (cheesecloth) and refrigerate on a rack for 7–10 days. The belly hams will cure first due to their thickness. Use over the following month. They will also freeze well. Slice thinly before serving, if desired.

Duck Confit

Duck Confit - Image Petrina Tinslay - Style Geraldine Muñoz

Confit is a french culinary term meaning to cook and preserve in oil or fat. While it is now served wherever the French are appreciated, duck confit originated and is emblematic of the Gascony region in the South West. The same technique can be used for a goose (if you are so fortunate) and secondary cuts of pork. On that note: this technique is perfect for relaxing a tougher cut, which is why it’s used for legs and shoulders. This recipe can be consumed immediately, but it is far more complex when left to cure for 2–3 months. Kept in a cool dark place this will last for 12 months, which is entirely the point.

*The true gift of this recipe is the fat. Fry slices of waxy potatoes in it and serve with a chicory (endive) salad with a sharp vinaigrette to be deliciously traditional.

• 2 teaspoons white peppercorns

• 2 teaspoons coriander seeds

• 1 bunch of thyme

• 4 bay leaves

• 2 teaspoons juniper berries

• 1 garlic bulb

• 2 oranges

• 100 g coarse sea salt

• 8 free-range duck leg quarters (marylands),

• 1 kg duck fat

1. In a bowl, combine the peppercorns, coriander seeds, thyme, bay leaves and juniper berries.

2. Crush the garlic bulb, remove the stem and add it to the spices.

3. Peel the oranges and use a small, sharp knife to remove the pith. Add them to the spices.

4. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and process to a fine paste. Add the salt and pulse to combine.

5. Rub a good amount of the spice mixture into the flesh side of the duck leg quarters, then place them on a plastic tray. Sprinkle over the remainder of the spice mixture and refrigerate overnight.

6. The following day, drain the liquid and rub away any remaining salt crystals using paper towel.

7. Heat the duck fat in a large casserole to 90°C (194°F).

8. Add the duck and maintain at this temperature for 1 1⁄2–2 hours until the thigh bone starts to loosen from the flesh. Remove from the heat to cool.

9. To do this, place the legs in layers in a non-reactive container – a wide-mouthed mason jar is perfect. Pour over the cooking fat to cover and knock the jar to remove any air bubbles. Make sure the fat covers the flesh by 2–3 cm.

10. To serve, remove from the fat and grill until the skin is crisp.

Beef Daube

Beef Daube - Image Petrina Tinslay - Styling Geraldine Muñoz

As a young chef I was lucky enough to be pointed in the direction of the seminal works of Elizabeth David. The two that resonated most with me are French Country Cooking [1952] and French Provincial Cooking [1962] for their simple unadulterated love of the French country kitchen. I started my apprenticeship at the ripe old age of 25 in a fashionable French Bistro just around the corner from Kings Cross. It was there that I was able to solidify my love and skill cooking these type of dishes such as the classic Beef Daube.

There is this thing that happens in language, where brands are so ubiquitous they become the common noun or verb: bandaid, yoyo, hoover, granola are some examples. So it is with cooking and the French, where the cooking vessel becomes the name of the dish – casserole, poêle and, as in this case, daube, which is a terracotta cooking vessel from Provence.

wine tip: Use a young vintage in the cooking and an older vintage (of the same wine) for drinking

Serves 4

• 1 kg beef shin

• 100 g plain (all-purpose) flour

• 100 ml olive oil

• 200 g thick pancetta or lardon (skin on), cut into 8 pieces

• 4 large carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks

• 12 small onions, outer layer of skin removed

• 1 bottle Shiraz

• 1 litre chicken stock

• 3 fresh bay leaves

• 2 cinnamon sticks 

• 1⁄2 bunch of thyme

• 2 allspice berries

• 2 cloves

• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns

• 1 garlic bulb

• zest of 1 orange

• 2 teaspoons cornflour (cornstarch)

1. Cut the beef shin into 8 large pieces and dust them in the flour.

2. In a large, deep, heavy-based frying pan over medium heat, brown the beef on all sides in the olive oil. Drain and transfer the meat to a large ovenproof casserole.

3. Brown the pancetta in the same frying pan.

4. Add it to the casserole, reserving the fat in the frying pan.

5. Brown the carrot in the frying pan then add it to the casserole.

6. Brown the onions in the frying pan and add them to the casserole, along with the remaining pancetta fat.

7. Pour the bottle of wine into the frying pan and cook over high heat until it has reduced to a syrup. Add the stock, bring to the boil and then add the contents of the pan to the casserole.

8. Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F).

9. Tie the bay leaves, cinnamon, and thyme into a tight bundle using butcher’s string then add it to the casserole with the remaining spices, garlic bulb and orange zest.

10. Put the lid on the casserole and cook in the oven for 4–5 hours until the beef is gelatinous and just starting to fall apart.

11. If required - Whisk the cornflour with 2 tablespoons of cold water to make a slurry. Stir the slurry into the casserole over low heat until it thickens. Serve the daube in the casserole at the table.

Chocolate Tart

Chocolate Tart - Image Petrina Tinslay - Styling Geraldine Munoz

This Chocolate Tart is based on one of the great tarts in the tart lexicon and originates from his eminence, Chef Joël Robuchon R.I.P. His recipe is a lesson in simplicity and elegance. I have changed the traditional pastry to a very short chocolate crust. Why? Because I think it’s better and that’s how cooking works.

The chocolate does the heavy lifting in texture and flavour. It should only be eaten freshly prepared, for its lustre is tarnished by time and refrigeration will render the filling as hard as a landlord’s heart.

makes two tarts because this is a time when too much chocolate is barely enough.

TART SHELL

• 150 g salted butter, softened

• 75 g caster (superfine) sugar

• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt

• 125 g plain (all-purpose) flour

• 50 g rice flour

• 50 g best quality unsweetened cocoa powder (Valthona, Callebaut)

• 1 egg, lightly beaten

FILLING

• 200 g best-quality chocolate (72% cocoa solids) (Valthona, Callebaut) etc

• 190 ml pouring (single/light) cream

• 80 ml milk

• 1 egg, lightly beaten

1. To make the tart bases - put the butter and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat until pale and creamy.

2. In a bowl, sift together the salt, flours and cocoa powder.

3. Using a spatula, fold the flours into the butter mixture until just coming together.

4. Do not mix them using the electric mixer or you will overwork the dough with the risk of shrinkage.

5. Tip the rough contents onto a work surface and, using the heel of your hand, press down and away from you to spread the dough in a fluid motion. Repeat three times.

6. Scrape the dough together and divide it into two balls. Flatten each ball slightly and wrap individually with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

7. Roll one ball of dough into a circle about 5 mm (1⁄4 in) thick. Place a 22 cm
   (83⁄4 in) tart ring on the dough and run the tip of a knife around the inside of
   the ring. Remove any excess dough. Remove the tart ring. Repeat with the second ball of dough.

8. Place the tart bases on a baking tray and refrigerate for another 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F).

9. Bake the tart bases in the oven for 10–12 minutes until the dough is dry. It will firm up once it cools.

10. Lightly beat the egg and use a pastry brush to paint a thin layer across the cooled bases. Return to the oven for 3 minutes to set the egg. This will prevent the base from going soggy once the filling is added.

11. To make the filling, coarsely chop the chocolate and place it in a medium heatproof bowl.

12. Bring the cream and milk to the boil in a small saucepan. Pour the hot milk mixture over the chocolate and stir until melted.

13. Whisk in the egg until fully incorporated.

14. Reduce the oven temperature to 100°C (210°F).

15. Place the two tart rings back over the baked bases. Pour the filling evenly between the two rings. Bake for 8–10 minutes until the filling is just set. It should still have a slight jiggle. Leave to firm at room temperature for 1 hour.

16. Serve at room temperature within 2–3 hours.

ANZAC Biscuits

ANZAC biscuits - Image Mark Best

Anzac Day, April 25th, is a national day of remembrance in Australia and New Zealand that broadly commemorates all Australians and New Zealanders who served and died in all wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping operations. Specifically it marks the anniversary of the first major military action fought by Australian and New Zealand forces during the First World War where some 60,000 Australians and 17,000 New Zealanders perished.

The army ration biscuit, also known as an Anzac wafer or Anzac tile, is essentially a long shelf-life, hard tack biscuit, eaten as a substitute for bread. Unlike bread, though, the biscuits are very, very hard. Some soldiers preferred to grind them up and eat as porridge.

Mine is the traditional sweet recipe made from ingredients that could survive the two-month journey sent from loved ones to soldiers on the front line, they were originally called Soldier’s biscuits and renamed following the Gallipoli landings.

The Australia and New Zealand Army Corps or ANZACs as they came to be known are remembered by these simple sweet biscuits that we bake on this occasion. Lest we forget.

• 90 gms steel-cut oats

•  75gm plain flour

•  100 gm wholemeal flour

•  150 gm raw sugar

•  30 gms desiccated coconut

•  5 gms salt

• 40 gms golden syrup (or light treacle)

•  1/2 tsp Baking Soda

•  60 mls water

•  125 gms butter

  1. sift flours, salt & baking soda together

  2. add oats, sugar & coconut

3. place butter, water & golden syrup into a pan & heat gently until just melted.

4. stir into the dry ingredients & work lightly until amalgamated

  5.moisten your hands and roll into small, walnut sized, balls & place onto a paper lined baking sheet

 6. allow 10 cm between each as they spread

7. bake at 170C until golden. around 35 min for chewy, 45 for crunchy 

Orange and Polenta Cake with Mandarin Sherbet

Orange and Polenta Cake with Mandarin Sherbet - Image Petrina Tinslay - Style Geraldine Munoz

This ageless middle eastern recipe first came to western prominence in ‘A Book of Middle Eastern Food’ by the inimitable Claudia Roden. It was published pre food processor in 1968 when you had to rub the cooked oranges through a sieve - which still works perfectly well.

Google pulled up 1,240,000 results for this cake in 22 seconds.  The cake recipe is as sound as it is common and I’ve cooked it for 25 years. My version includes polenta (which is a Sicilian variation) and adds a kick with the syrup and Chartreuse chaser. Any citrus fruit is suitable, but obviously make sure to maintain a similar weight. Two mandarins will - a dry cake make. Likewise the sherbet can be made of any citrus, orange goes very well with the cake but I find the mandarin more floral and prefer it. Serve each slice with a great pile of sherbet on top like a sand dune of icing.

The Cake

• 2 small oranges

• butter for greasing

• flour for dusting

• 5 large eggs 55–60 g

• 170 g caster (superfine) sugar

• 170 g ground almonds

• 50 g polenta

• 1 teaspoon baking powder (make sure it is fresh!)

  SYRUP

• 1 vanilla bean

• 230 g caster (superfine) sugar

• 4 cardamom pods

• 2 star anise

• 50 ml Chartreuse

1. To make the syrup, split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into a small saucepan over medium–low heat – throw in the pod as well.

2. Add the sugar, 1 cup of water and the remaining spices.

3. Bring to a gentle simmer, cook for 5 minutes then remove the pan from the heat. Add the Chartreuse and allow to infuse for 30 minutes.

4. Strain into a clean container.

5. Put the oranges, unpeeled, in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil over medium–high heat. Reduce the heat to medium–low, cover and simmer for 11⁄4 hours until the oranges are very soft.

6. Drain and cool for 30 minutes.

7. Preheat the oven to 190°C

8. Butter a 24 cm springform cake tin and line the base with a disc of baking paper. Butter the tin again, including the paper, and lightly dust with flour – shake out any excess.

9. Coarsely chop the boiled oranges, removing any pips, then transfer them to a food processor and purée.

10. Whisk together the eggs and sugar for 2 minutes.

11. Stir in the ground almonds and polenta and sift in the baking powder.

12. Add the puréed oranges and mix well.

13. Pour the mixture into the tin and bake for 40–45 minutes until light golden and just firm to the touch. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool.

14. Transfer the cake to a serving plate and use a skewer to prick it all over.

15. Spoon over some of the syrup and allow it to soak in before adding more. Continue until all the syrup has been used.

The sherbet

Before the internet, kids had fireworks night, a long walk home from school and sherbet. The liquorice straw in the sherbet gave out with the first suck but continued to give good service as a dipping stick. It wasn’t a sharing thing. We also had Wizz Fizz with tiny plastic spoons and a little plastic ring that would only fit a monkey. The sherbet can be given an AO rating by simply using the skin of a grapefruit instead. Kids and the dull of mind do not like bitter. Also amazing with chocolate or vanilla ice cream.

Mandarin Sherbet - Image Petrina Tinslay - Style Geraldine Munoz

• 4 mandarins

• 95 g icing (confectioners’) sugar

• 3 g citric acid

• 3 g tartaric acid

1. Peel the mandarins and eat the flesh

2. Put the peel on a baking tray and cook overnight in a 55–60°C oven to dry until crisp.

3. Different peels will vary in drying time. You are looking for crisp

4. Put the dry mandarin peel in a spice grinder with the tartaric and citric acids and blend to a very fine powder.

5. Add it to the icing sugar in a bowl and combine.

6. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

7. Store in an airtight container until required.

Roast Duck with Snake Beans and Radicchio

Roast Duck, Snake Beans and Radicchio - Image Petrina Tinslay - Style David Morgan - for AEG

I once went to Beijing to cook and, not being particularly sharp and the recipient of a simple country education, it took me a while to remember that the city was formerly named Peking. A little while later the penny dropped and I thought this was probably the home of Peking duck and that was why it was served with wheat pancakes, as it is in the North. The only version I had eaten was in Cantonese restaurants – definitely rice territory. One of the finest was had at Da Dong. Chef Dong Zhenxiang roasts his in brick ovens fuelled by fruit wood, including persimmon. [this was 2012]. Most recently I had a sublime experience at ‘The Country Kitchen’ at The Rosewood Beijing where the duck is properly served with a sweet tian mian jiang dipping sauce, made from fermented soybeans – not hoisin plum, which is a corruption. (don’t @ me)

Having said all that here is my inspired version. Yes, I know what I did there.

• 1 x 1.8-2kg free range duck  

• 1 leek 

• 2 carrots

• 1 head garlic 

• 2 star anise

• 1 tsp juniper berries 

• 1 tsp all-spice 

• 1 tsp Sichuan pepper 

• 1 tsp white peppercorns 

• 1 tsp coriander seeds 

• 30g sea salt flakes 

• 2 mandarins

• 1 dessert spoon Tamari

• 1 dessert spoon sesame oil

• 1 cup red wine

• 1 dessert spoon of corn starch 

1. Rinse the duck under cold running water. 

2. Pat dry with paper towel

3. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the spices together with the sea salt flakes

4. Using a food processor, blend the whole mandarins, then add the spices

5. Spread the spiced mandarin paste evenly into the cavity of the duck. 

6. Seal the cavity with a stainless-steel skewer

7. Take the leeks and remove the dark green tops. 

8. Wash well under running water and slice finely 

9. Peel the carrot and finely slice

10. Break the head of garlic into cloves

11. Here we can do the long way or the shorter version:

12. the long: Bring 3 litres (101 fl oz/12 cups) water and 100gms fine salt to the boil and add 100mls vinegar. Roll the duck in the water to tighten and set the skin, then place the duck on a wire rack to cool. Refrigerate for 2 days, uncovered, to dry the skin. 

13. the short: Using a portable butane torch or high gas flame, rotate the duck to shrink and dry out the skin (this gives your duck a good shape and crispy skin) 

14. Brush the skin with the tamari and sesame oil 

15. Preheat the oven to 220°C (fan forced)

16. Lay the vegetables on the bottom of a deep roasting tray, then place the duck on a wire rack over the tray

17. Cook for 25 minutes on 200°C, then reduce the heat to 160°C and cook for a further 45 minutes

18. Drain the excess fat (and retain for other uses)

19. Once cooked, remove the duck from the oven and rest it for a minimum of 20 minutes.

20. Remove the skewer and drain the juices and fat from the cavity and retain for the sauce

21. Place the roasting tray over a burner and brown the vegetables thoroughly if they don’t have enough colour

22. Add the red wine and retained juices and cook quickly for 2 minutes. Add a cup of hot water and simmer for 5 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve into a small pan, pressing on the solids. Discard the solids

23. Return the pan to the heat and add the corn starch (mixed with a little water) and cook until the sauce thickens. Adjust the seasoning if required

Snake beans with basil

• 1 bunch snake beans

• 1 bunch Thai basil

• 50 mls sesame oil

• 25 mls light soy 

• 1/2 tsp freshly ground kampot pepper

1. trim the slack end of each bean

2. cut into 10cm lengths

3. pick the leaves & flowers from the basil

4. heat the oil in a wok until smoking

5. add the pepper & then the beans

6. toss frequently until the skin of the beans blister

7. add the basil & toss well

8. add the soy

9. toss well & serve immediately 

Radicchio Salad 

• 2 heads radicchio 

• 100 gms Hazelnuts 

• 50 mls Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

• 20 mls Apple Cider vinegar

• 1/2 tsp Murray River Salt

• freshly ground black pepper 

1. Pre-heat the oven to 180c

2. place the hazelnuts on a roasting tray & cook for 10-15minutes until the skins blister & the nut is a light caramel colour

3. Rub the nuts in the folds of a clean tea towel to remove the skin 

4. roughly chop the nuts

5. use a small utility knife to remove the radicchio core

6. Remove any wilted outer leaves

7. separate all of the leaves & put into a large salad bowl 

8. dress with the oil, vinegar & salt

9. toss well

10. finish with a good grind of pepper & the hazelnuts 

Roast Quince and Custard

Roast Quince and Custard - Image Petrina Tinslay - Style David Morgan - for AEG

By popular demand (ok..one person thanks Alice Zaslavsky) and the abundance of the Season (autumn here in oz) I bring you Roast Quince. This is a sweet (ish) variation on this beautiful fruit and a dessert for people who like theirs on the savoury side. Death row supper? This and a couple of slices of aged farmhouse cheddar.

A couple of notes; when I say ‘suitable ceramic baking dish’ I mean no need for social distancing and it’s not Uber ride share. If you want to make the custard but the fear is upon you, add a dessert spoon of cornflour to the eggs and whisk it in. A little hack for you to custard with confidence.

Also - bonus round - you’ll see a quince jelly recipe below to make these beauties last until next season.

Roast Quince & Custard

Quince 

• 3 Quince

• 120 g  raw sugar 

• 3 tablespoons honey

• 120 gm salted butter

• juice and zest of 1 lemon 

• juice and zest of 1 orange 

• 2 star anise

• 3 cloves

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 2 fresh bay leaves 

• Preheat the oven to 170°C 

1. wash the quince well to remove the brown fluff

2. Cut the quince in quarters 

3. remove the seeds

4. place in a suitable ceramic baking dish. 

5. Add the sugar, honey, citrus juice and zest  

6. Add the star anise, cloves, cinnamon stick and bay leaves

7. Cut the butter into slices  

8. place a slice of butter on each piece of quince

9. cover the quinces with a sheet of baking paper 

10. bake until the quince are soft, around two hours. 

11. baste with the cooking juices from time to time

12. Serve warm. 

Custard

• 250 ml full-cream milk

• 250 ml pouring cream (35%)

• 2 vanilla beans, split and seeds scraped

• 120 g caster sugar

• 6 egg yolks

1. Put the milk, split vanilla beans and their seeds and half the sugar in a saucepan over medium heat.

2. Put the egg yolks in a large bowl and whisk in the remaining sugar until pale and a light mousse forms.

3. When the milk starts to rise in the pan, whisk it into the eggs in a thin stream to avoid curdling the eggs. 

4. Whisk well and then return to the pan. 

5. Cook over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until it thickens (just on 80°C). 

6. Pour the custard through a sieve into a clean bowl set over an ice bath

7. whisk slowly from from time to time to cool and prevent splitting.

Quince Jelly - Image Petrina Tinslay

Quince Jelly

• 1.5 kg sugar

• 2.25 kg quince

• juice of 1 lemon

1. Put 2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) water and the sugar in a 4 litre (135 fl oz/16 cup) saucepan and bring to the boil

2. Reduce the heat to a low simmer.

3. Quarter and core the quince, adding the pieces to the saucepan as they are cut, along with the cores and seeds.

4. Cook over medium heat until the quince are soft and light pink, around 3 hours.

5. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve. Reserve the quince for another use, discarding the cores and seeds.

6. Return the quince syrup to a clean saucepan.

7. Juice the lemon and add both the juice and the squeezed lemon to the quince syrup and cook on a low simmer until the temperature reaches 110°C (230°F) and is a ruby red colour.

8. Sterilise three 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cup) preserving jars. (by putting them in an 80c oven for an hour)

9. Pour the hot syrup into the jars and close the lid. Invert the jars to create a seal and leave to cool. 

10. This will last for many months in a dark cool cupboard.

Pumpkin Soup and Blue Cheese Puffs

Pumpkin Soup and Blue Cheese Puffs - Image Petrina Tinslay - Style David Morgan - for AEG

I hesitate to do this to my mum (again) as I upset her by a mildly disparaging mention in my last two books. Anyway (sorry mum, I love you) ... I watched her make pumpkin soup which, bravo kiss kiss, she did quickly and efficiently using just pumpkin and water and some seasoning. The issue was the flavour – i.e., none.

A good dish, and by that I mean delicious, is the accumulation of many details and gathering layers of flavour to create depth and integrity. The pumpkin actually requires a reasonable amount of assistance to give it substance. I was once asked, ‘What makes your pumpkin soup better?’ Two things, taste and texture.

NB: In regards to the blender I love to use my TM 3 thermomix. This is the chef’s favourite (the newer robo cop one is rubbish) because of the particular bowl shape and that it blends extremely quickly. (If you don’t believe me, try and buy one on eBay). A bar blender or Vitaprep is also perfect. The thermomix has an added advantage, as the hotter the ingredient, the slower it commences or ramps up to speed. I have suffered nasty burns blending hot soups and sauces as at high temp these devices can be explosive. Be careful.

Pumpkin Soup 

serves 6

• 1kg ripe Queensland blue pumpkin  or Butternut

• 1 onion, coarsely chopped 

• 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 

• 200 g salted butter 

• 1 teaspoon salt 

• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 

• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 

• 1⁄2 teaspoon cumin seeds

• 100 ml white wine 

• 500 mls chicken stock 

1. Cut the pumpkin into large wedges 

2. carefully remove the seeds and then skin. 

3. Cut it into 2cm cubes.

4. heat a heavy based saucepan over moderate heat

5. cook the onion and garlic in the butter until translucent. 

6. Add the salt, pepper and nutmeg

7. add the pumpkin. 

8. Cook the pumpkin starts to turn golden. 

9. Add the wine and cook until reduced to a syrup consistency. 

10. Add the stock and reduce the heat to a low simmer. 

11. Cook for 45 minutes or until the pumpkin is very soft.

12. For safety, allow the soup to cool a little and then transfer the pumpkin to a high- speed blender [in batches] 

13. purée at high speed. 

14. Pass through a very fine sieve 

15. Season with extra salt to taste.

Choux Puffs

• 50g butter

• 125g water

• 75g plain flour

• 1/4 tsp salt

• 1/2 tsp sugar

• 1 egg yolk

• 2 whole [50gm] eggs

• 1 egg, extra (for adjustment and egg wash)

• 100 gms Gorgonzola 

• 100 mls pouring cream 

1. Preheat oven to 200°C. 

2. Whisk yolk and two whole eggs together.

3. In a medium saucepan, bring butter and water to the boil.  

4. Add in plain flour, sugar and salt.  

5. Using a wooden spoon stir vigorously until the flour thickens and the dough is coming away from the sides of the pan. 

6. Transfer mix to mixer with a paddle attachment.  

7. On a medium speed, beat for 30 seconds to release some of the heat 

8. slowly add the egg mix in a thin stream.

9. The mix should be smooth and glossy with a slight elasticity.  

10. If mix is too dry, add in slightly more egg.

11. Transfer mix to a piping bag with a 1cm star nozzle.

12. Pipe paste, approximately 2cm in diameter.  Leave space between each to allow for the choux to rise.  

13. Gently dab egg wash on to each 

14. Bake for 10 minutes or until golden brown and dry [inside]. 

    To serve:

    Blend Gorgonzola & cream together and fill the Choux puffs with a small piping nozzle 

Caramelised Pineapple Tart

Caramelised Pineapple Tart - Image Petrina Tinslay - Style David Morgan - for AEG

This delicious tart should be attempted, practiced & perfected. It is an absolute winner & based on the almost mythical invention by the French Tatin sisters, Stéphanie and Caroline in the 1880’s. It isn't particularly difficult but does benefit from a caring touch & mucho practice. This tart is different in that I use pineapple instead of the traditional apple. When choosing your fruit look for low acid varieties like Aussie Gold or Aus Jubilee and please make sure they are ripe (they should smell strongly of pineapple). My other variation is the addition of Sichuan pepper. Sichuan pepper is from the prickly ash tree and therefore is not a true pepper in the conventional Western sense. It has a unique aroma and slight lemony overtones and can create a tingly numbness in the mouth (due to hydroxy-α-sanshool) if you chew on them. I use it to mitigate the sweetness of the dish and add a certain je ne sais quoi (French for yummy).

You can use supermarket pastry but it is so much more delicious using my puff pastry recipe. - see below - It is worth looking for a decent demonstration online but please follow my ingredients. They are slightly different and the recipe originates from the grand master of puff, Alain Passard.

NB: Please be careful turning the tart onto it’s serving platter as the caramel is as forgiving as lava.

NB: Any offcuts of pastry can be used to make cheesy pastry twists

You will need a 30cm non-stick pan and a slightly larger deep serving platter

• 1 large Ripe Pineapple 

• 150g butter, cubed

• 225g castor sugar

• 1 orange, juiced

• 500g puff pastry 

• 1 cup Plain flour for rolling

• I tsp Sichuan pepper 

1. Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC.

2. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to 5mm thick.

3. Cut out a rough 40cm circle, place on a tray and refrigerate until required.

4. Remove ends & peel the Pineapple

5. Cut into quarters lengthwise 

6. remove the core & discard

7. cut the pineapple into 1cm slices 

8. Place a heavy pan on a medium-high heat.  

9. Add sugar to the pan and cook until it forms a dark golden caramel.

10. Once caramelised, add orange juice and butter & stir to amalgamate over a low heat

11. add the Sichuan pepper corns (making sure they are evenly distributed)

12. Place the pineapple slices round side down around the outside of the pan, overlapping them until you complete the circle.  Fill the middle, crowding the pieces as much as possible.  

13. Working quickly (as the heat will melt the pastry) place the pastry disc over the top of the fruit, tucking the sides down under the outer row.

14. Prick half a dozen holes in the top of the pastry with a fork

15. Bake for 45-60 minutes until pastry is dark, golden & crisp.  

16. Remove from oven and rest for five minutes

17. Place serving platter on top of the pan.  With one hand on the base of the platter, use the other (and a thick tea towel) to pick up the pan and carefully flip it over. 

18. be very careful of the hot caramel as you flip

19. Lift off the pan.

20. Serve with cultured cream

PUFF PASTRY

• 600 g French (or quality pastry butter) unsalted butter

• 750 g baker’s flour

• 15 g table salt

• 300 g butter, diced and softened

• 200 ml milk

• 200 ml pouring (single/light 35% milk fat) cream

  To make the puff pastry, line a 15 cm (6 in) square mould with plastic wrap. Press the French unsalted butter into the mould and allow to harden in the refrigerator.

  Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add the diced, softened butter and mix on low speed until you have a crumb-like texture. Add the milk and cream and mix to combine. Mix for a further 6 minutes. Remove the dough from the mixer, form it into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.

  Remove the moulded butter from the refrigerator. It should remain cold with some plasticity. Flatten the ball of dough slightly. Starting from the centre, roll a portion of the dough upwards to form a ‘petal’. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat. Do this until there are four petals. Place the moulded butter in the middle of the dough flower and fold each ‘petal’ over the butter like an envelope. It is important for the butter and the dough to be at a similar consistency – this means the dough may need to be refrigerated during the process; likewise the butter.

  Once the butter is covered by the dough, roll it into a 30 × 45 cm (12 × 18 in) rectangle, ensuring the butter does not split out from the dough. Place the dough lengthways in front of you and, starting from the bottom, fold one-third into
  the middle. Then, from the top, fold the top third down to the middle. Turn the dough so the short side is on your left. Roll out again to 30 × 45 cm and repeat the folding process. This is one turn. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes. Repeat the process of rolling, folding and resting a further five times. The butter should be layered evenly throughout the dough with none breaking through the sides. It is important to work quickly so the dough remains chilled while rolling.

  Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Roll out 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) of the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to 5 mm (1⁄4 in) thick. Cut out a rough 40 cm (16 in) circle, put it on a tray and refrigerate until required.

Poached Quince and Vanilla Egg Custard

Poached Quince - Image Toby Peet - Styling Jane Frosh

The Quince is a traditional and ancient fruit tied to ancient cultures and for me embodies Autumn.

In this recipe I have reduced the sugar and cook them until incredibly fragrant. The colour is pale and beautiful. I also like to cook them longer with a (very) high concentration of sugar to a dark ruby hue. They are incredibly versatile and are also delicious in savoury dishes. Try roasting them whole with a pork roast until they are soft and look to explode through their skin. Better than apple sauce.

To choose your quince look for a powerful, characteristically sweet (and unusual) aroma as a great indicator of full ripeness. They should be shiny and a clear-golden yellow. If skins are still covered with a kind of fur, they are not ready to be picked.

Quinces always feel heavy and hard, but are nowhere near as tough as they seem. Despite the hard skin and rock-solid flesh, quinces are remarkably tender and are easily bruised. So handle with great care.

The fruit are full of bitter tannins to protect them from animal and insect attack. Under the influence of languid heat these tannins or phenolic compounds, along with the amount of added sugar, react with oxygen  to form anthocyans. Anthocyanins create the transformation from something sour, astringent and inedible to a soft, perfumed, buttercup/rose/ruby coloured delight.

Just to explain a little of the science behind the magic. 

Serves 4

• 2 Quince

• 200 gms Castor sugar

• 100 mls Water

• 1 Lemon

• 1 Cinnamon quill  

• 1 Bay leaf

• 2 Star anise

Custard

• 300 ml pouring cream (35% milk fat)

• 300 ml whole cream milk 

• 6 Egg yolks

• 50 gms Castor sugar

• 2 Vanilla beans

Quinces 

1.      Bring the sugar and water to the boil 

2.      Peel the quince and cut in halves (they oxidise very quickly so if you are doing a higher volume place them into a container of cool water to slow this down. There is no reason to acidify the water and waste a lemon.

3.      Remove the seeds with a Parisian scoop (melon baller) or teaspoon

4.      Place a star anise in the centre of each half

5.      Add to the sugar syrup with the zest of the lemon, cinnamon quill and bayleaf

6.    Cook on a low simmer for around two hours with the lid on

7.    We are looking for the quinces to be soft, buttercup yellow and fragrant 

Custard 

1. Put the cream and milk into a small heavy based pan with the sugar 

2. Cut the vanilla beans in half and remove the seeds with a teaspoon

3. Add them to the cream and milk with the split pods

4. Place on a very low heat allowing the vanilla to macerate and release its oils

5. whisk the eggs until pale

6. bring the cream to the boil and pour over the yolks while whisking. 

7. adding the sugar to the cream allows a higher boiling point than normal which should be enough to cook the custard. 

8. It should look thicker and shiny

9. If it doesn’t thicken for you, place your bowl over a simmering pot of water and stir until it thickens (82 celsius)

10. Place the bowl into an ice bathe and stir to cool 

Hot Cross Buns Mark Best Style

Hot Cross Buns - Image Mark Best - Styled Mark Best

Tradition, authenticity and origin are to be considered when eating the hot cross bun. Their origin is lost to history and nostalgia. When we started using these to signify part of the pagan festival we call Easter is hard to know. The cross is to said signify the end of Lent and the spices to signify the embalming of Jesus following his crucifixion.

Hot Cross Buns are inextricably linked to Easter and to Christianity. In reality, they probably have pre-Christian origins. ‘Cross Buns’ were baked to celebrate Eostre, a Germanic Goddess of Fertility, after which the season of Easter is said to be named. The four quarters of the cross on top of each bun were said to represent the phases of the moon, while the cross itself symbolised Spring and the rebirth after winter. (of the Northern Hemisphere)  

Back to the buns at hand. I am not going to bother with a recipe as there are almost as many as them online as there are people saying they are Jesus. One of them must be wrong.

This recipe is naturally leavened (now that’s old testament!) using my sourdough starter. One of the best sources for your starter is the seminal volume Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson. I then used the basic proportions of his country bread recipe with less hydration. The hot cross bun is an ‘enriched dough’ meaning the addition of dairy in the form of butter and milk and eggs, which I added. With something as basic and ubiquitous as this I like to pimp it a little. I used my experience to guesstimate, so while I am moderately happy with the result (like me they are a little more dense than optimal) another attempt would see me make some adjustments. Having eaten six of these already my gut instinct tells me this will be next Easter.

In terms of the spices I used Garam Masala , dried rose petals and Iranian saffron. I used currants and sultanas soaked in rum. For the citrus I used a chunky home made marmalade. For the glaze I used apricot jam let down with a spoon or two of water and simmered a little. This combination is pleasing in a culinary and intellectual sense.

Jesus the man most likely spoke Aramaic which is from the same family as Hebrew.  Aramaic remains a spoken, literary, and liturgical language for some Christians of that area and also some Jews. Aramaic also continues to be spoken by the Assyrians of Iraq, northeastern Syria, southeastern Turkey and northwest Iran, with diaspora communities in Armenia, Georgia, Azerbaijan and southern Russia which I think speaks to the origin of the bun.

This is not a recipe, more an attitude. You cannot create in a vacuum.

Parsnip Drizzle Cake

Parsnip Drizzle Cake - Image Petrina Tinslay - Styled Geraldine Muñoz

“On a slow news day in 2009, a famous Australian TV gardening guru and an equally famous cookery author went to war – over the humble parsnip. The guru described the author as ‘wretched’ for serving parsnips to people, as they were not fit for pigs. ‘I’m outraged, I’m angry, I’m upset, I’m crushed. I’m all of those things and a lot more,’ he said on air. He insisted that they (the poor parsnips) ‘were an affront to human dignity. I respect pigs, I like pigs, but I wouldn’t give my pet pig parsnips.’
The author and the parsnip industry rose up to defend the worthy vegetable. The author said the guru was ‘out of touch’ and sent him a box of parsnips with recipes, challenging him to confront his prejudices.
‘I was surprised he was having a go. It’s just a parsnip,’ the author said. ‘If the guru cared to step into a modern restaurant he would find everyone’s using parsnips – they’re in vogue.’
Not only ‘in vogue’, Madam. Bloody delicious.

an extract from “Best Kitchen Basics” Author Mark Best, Published in Australia by Hardie Grant
”

Parsnips are not normally associated with cake. Having said that, I’d imagine that carrots weren’t always either. For me the carrot cake has now reached a level of banality where I would rather saw off an appendage than submit to a piece. It was from this dark emotional place that the parsnip cake had its inception. This cake, if carefully made, is a revelation in terms of the sweet, moist nuttiness and perhaps, counter-intuitively, the delicacy the parsnip brings to the game.

• 350 g parsnips

• 175 g unsalted butter

• 250 g raw (demerara) sugar

• 100 g golden syrup (light treacle)

• 3 eggs

• 250 g plain (all-purpose) flour

• 1 tablespoon baking powder

• ICING

• 1 egg white

• 240 g (81⁄2 oz) icing (confectioners’) sugar

• 1 teaspoon lemon juice

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F). Grease (butter) and flour a non-stick 22 × 10 cm (83⁄4 × 4 in) ring or (bundt) tin.

2. In a large saucepan over low heat, melt the butter, sugar and golden syrup. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool for 5 minutes.

3. Lightly whisk the eggs and add them to the cooled mixture.

4. Sift together the flour and baking powder.

5. Peel and coarsely grate the parsnips using a box grater or similar .

6. Toss the parsnips in the flour mixture to coat evenly.

7. Use a spatula to combine the wet ingredients with the dry ingredients and pour into the prepared tin.

8. Tap the tin to style the mix and any large air bubbles.

9. Bake for 40–45 minutes or until an inserted skewer comes out clean.

10. Turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool for 15–20 minutes before icing.

11. To make the icing, whisk the egg white in a medium bowl until just broken up.

12. Whisk in the icing sugar to form a thin icing. Stir in the lemon juice to assist hardening.

13. Decorate the cooled cake with the icing and leave for 25 minutes to set before serving with a lovely cup of tea. .

Steak and Mushrooms

Steak and Mushrooms Image Toby Peet Styled Jane Frosh for AEG

This timeless combination of perfectly tender, melt-in-your mouth steak and juicy mushrooms is great for any night of the week. Getting there can be fraught. Buy the best steak you can afford. I know it’s out of ‘fashion’ (amongst my peers anyway) to enjoy fillet steak.  I do. For some reason, what used to be the most expensive cut, is now a reasonable value buy from the supermarket. You know what else? I like it cooked to medium. Judge me or run at me.

A few tips to lift your steak game

• Cut: Other than fillet, try ‘butcher cuts’ like flank or hanger, or a Scotch fillet or a well-aged tenderloin are great options. Try to support a quality butcher because they will be able to recommend the best cut, age and breed to suit you.

• Steak temperature: Always cook meat from room temperature because it will allow the steak to cook more evenly and quickly. Take the steak out of the fridge 1-2 hours prior to cooking for the optimal frying temperature. There are many ‘techniques’ for judging the internal cooking temperature of meat. I rely on one. The digital thermometer.

  • Rare 60c

  • Medium Rare 60-65c

  • Medium 70c

  • after that any sign of pink will elicit cries of "of oh my god it’s still alive”

• Seasoning: With most home cooks under-seasoning their food, a ratio of 2 grams of salt per kilo of steak should be used as a guide (use an accurate digital scale to weigh the salt). Soft flaked salt is best as it has an inherent sweetness, whereas fine cooking salt is too aggressive. It’s also important to always season before cooking, keeping aside a third of the total amount to use for seasoning during and after cooking. For me, a good grind of fresh black pepper is the only other thing required.

• Pan temperature: The thinner the steak, the hotter the pan and vice versa. It is a balancing act between the caramelisation of the protein on the exterior to develop maximum flavour, and perfect doneness on the interior. Start with a high heat so the steak can sear, form a nice golden crust and start to caramelise. I prefer to cook my steak on the presentation side for around two thirds of the total cooking time and then flip it over once to finish cooking. Cooking on one side allows a lovely caramelisation and also allows you to see what is happening to the meat as the heat gradually rises through the steak. Don’t be a flipper!!

• Resting time: Always rest your steak for approximately the same amount of time it was cooked to let the fibres relax and the juices spread. Slice it across the grain to render a tender chew.

• Added flavour: Brush the steak lightly with olive oil instead of putting the oil in a pan, as it also helps your seasoning stick. Season with freshly ground black pepper in addition to soft flaked salt. If you like the flavour of butter with your steak, brown it first with oil then finish with a good amount of butter towards the end. Spoon the foaming butter over the steak to stop it burning and to allow the butter to cook the steak evenly and impart its flavour. 

• 4x 180 gm fillet steaks

• 400 gms mixed mushrooms - shiitake, Swiss brown, oyster

• 200 gms baby spinach

• 2 cloves garlic chopped finely 

• Spring of fresh thyme 

• 1 tsp salt flakes

• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

• 20gms butter

• 20mls sesame oil 

• 1 tsp dijon mustard

Method 

Steak

1. Brush the steaks with sesame oil (I love it for the flavour) or use olive oil cooking spray

2. Season steaks liberally with salt and pepper.

3. Heat your pan according to my previous tips and the cut of your steak. Once the steak is cooked to your liking, place into a low oven at 50°C to rest and stay warm while you prepare the accompaniments.

Mushrooms

1. Cut the mushrooms into large even sized pieces.

2. Add the remaining sesame oil and butter.

3. Add the garlic and cook until just golden 

4. Add the mushrooms.

5. Season with salt and pepper.

6. Add the sprig of thyme.

7. Sauté until golden.

8. Add the spinach and fry until it just wilts.

9. add the mustard and toss through

To Serve

• Place the steak on four warmed plates. Spoon over the mushrooms and any pan juices

Oven Baked Sebago Chips

Oven Baked Chips - Image Trent van der Jagt

Chips! The ultimate comfort food and a panacea for most ailments. Chips, for me, need to be hand cut, generous in nature and taste of the potato. Fries are perfunctury, salty and taste of regret.

This recipe is great for those that don’t want to have to deal with litres of hot oil to access a simple pleasure. I use Sebago potatoes in season for their particular combination of starch, texture and flavour. You could also use King Edwards or Desiree. These are potatoes readily available in Australia. If you are from other parts, look for spuds with a very pale yellow flesh and dry texture.

Serves 4

• 6 large Sebago potatoes 

• 50 gms fine salt 

• 1 dessert spoon flaked sea salt 

• 100 mls Malt vinegar

• Olive Oil cooking spray 

1. Pre-heat a heavy, flat cast iron pan in an Oven at 190c 

2. Wash the potatoes well and peel them.

3. Wash again under running water. 

4. Cut into thick chips

5. Add to a large saucepan and cover in cold water 

6. Add the fine salt and vinegar

7. Bring to a low rolling boil on a cooktop

8. Cook for 5 minutes to bloom the starch [90c water temp for this]

9. Drain the chips in a strainer or colander

10. spray the pre-heated pan with the olive oil spray and add the chips, spaced evenly

11. Spray the chips liberally with olive oil

12. Cook in the oven until golden, around 1 hr 30 minutes. 

13. Sprinkle with additional salt and serve 

Korean Style Roast Chicken

Korean Style Roast Chicken - Image Trent van der Jagt

This dish is on high rotation for the Best family kitchen. It is a very easy one pot dish that is just as delicious cold as hot. The hero here is the Korean Chilli Flakes [Gochugaru] They are mild like paprika and give a warmth and delicious red hue to the dish. Instead of this I also like to use Chinese hot fermented bean paste (豆瓣酱, dòu bàn jiàng) . It is thick and dark reddish in colour and has a lovely fermented savoury, salty flavour. Either way it is delicious and subtly different.

Serves 4

• 1 x 1.2 kg Free Range Chicken 

• 1 head of garlic 

• 1 knob [50 gms] fresh ginger 

• 50 ml Sesame Oil 

• 1 tsp Szechuan Pepper 

• 2 tsp Korean Chilli Flakes [Gochugaru]

• 2 tsp flaked sea salt 

• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 

1. Preheat a heavy casserole dish to 190c in a fan forced Oven

2. Remove the back bone of the chicken using a pair of kitchen scissors

3. remove both legs

4. trim away the rib section. 

5. remove the wings by cutting through the shoulder joint

6. Separate the breasts by cutting down the centre of the breast 

7. coarsely grate the head of garlic  and ginger [no need to remove the skin] using a box grater into a large dish

8. add the salt, sesame oil, Szechuan, black pepper and chilli flakes

9. Add the chicken and coat evenly

10. Marinade for 1-2 hours if time permits

11. Add the chicken, skin side up, spacing it out evenly so that the pieces don’t touch

12. Put back into the oven and roast for 45-50 minutes until the skin is golden. 

CASARECCE WITH CHICKEN DUMPLINGS

CASARECCE WITH CHICKEN DUMPLINGS

This is from a recipe adapted for the March 2020 issue of Selector Magazine You can replace ingredients if needs be, just be sure to replace apples with apples (if you know what I mean).

Serves 4-6

This is a delicious comfort dish. It seems traditional but it is really an amalgam of several dishes. The pasta idea was from Alain Ducasse, the meatballs are meatballs, bit of Jewish bit of Chinese, bit of French, the cheese addition is Cacio e pepe like, the lemon juice was when we cooked a version at Pei modern. Matt Germanchis (head chef) said it was like Avgolemono.

I have been cooking variations of it for many years. An interesting thing is cooking the pasta like a risotto. It is a technique I first came across in Nice and it is reasonably common in the French and Italian Rivieras. The starch from the pasta thickens the sauce and also gives an incredible texture. Cararecce originates from Sicily, and are short twists of pasta, which appear rolled up on themselves. Possible substitutes are Strozzapreti (or ‘Priest Stranglers’) or Penne. Any of the shorter pastas with some structure to hold up in the cooking process. In regards to brands, I have my preferences such as Benedetto Cavalieri the important thing to look for is that the pasta is made of hard durum wheat semolina, is usually extruded with bronze dies and is not kiln dried. Nothing against the shiny, yellow, kiln dried supermarket pastas but they just don’t give the same result.

If you are at all squeamish about the included offal. Feel free to leave it out. No judgment but its all chicken .

INGREDIENTS 

• 80 ml virgin olive oil 

• 100g butter 

• 300g casarecce 

• 700ml chicken stock 

• 150g Parmigiano Reggiano 

• Juice of 1/2 lemon 

• Freshly ground White pepper 

CHICKEN DUMPLINGS 

• 600g chicken breast 

• 4 chicken livers 

• 1 egg

• 180ml pouring cream

• 10 chicken hearts 

• 1/2 nutmeg

• 1 cup panko crumbs 

• 1 tsp salt

• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 

  METHOD

  1. To make the chicken dumplings: use a kitchen knife to separately chop the chicken breast, livers and hearts into small pieces.

  2. Transfer half the chopped breast and egg to a food processor and process until quite fine. 

  3. Add the cream in a thin stream and continue to process to form a mousse. 

  4. Add the chicken heart, liver, and remaining chicken breast, nutmeg, panko crumbs, teaspoon salt and the white pepper to the food processor and pulse to combine. 

  5. Cook a small spoonful in simmering water until firm to test for balance of flavour and texture. Adjust the seasoning to taste. 

  6. To make the casarecce: put the olive oil and 40g of the butter in a heavy- based saucepan over low heat. Add the pasta and stir to coat it evenly. 

  7. Add the chicken stock and cook for 10 minutes, stirring constantly. 

  8. Using a dessertspoon, make small balls of the chicken dumpling mixture and add it to the pasta (approximately 3–4 balls per person). 

  9. Cook for a further 10 minutes. 

  10. Remove the pan from the heat and finish with the finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano and the remaining butter. 

  11. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and stir (with a wooden spoon) to emulsify the sauce

  11. Finish with a generous grinding of white pepper. 

  Serve with a simple salad of green and bitter leaves dressed with Olive Oil

  Photography: Rob Palmer, Styling: Emma Knowles, Food Prep: Sarah-Jane Hallett

Pizza !

The dough recipe is from the great Stefano Manfredi and published in his fabulous book New Pizza published by Murdoch Books. This excerpt, including excellent step by step instructions and further tips was published in the Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food.

I decided to try baking pizza on my Green Egg after purchasing a pizza stone for it. I have the minimax and have to say it turned out rather well. It does a fantastic job of replicating the conditions of a wood fired oven. I did have issues with balancing the temperature of the base and the cavity. We are talking 350 celsius here, that’s 660 degrees Fahrenheit for you ‘mericans. If you’re not careful you can easily scorch the base without getting sufficient colour on top. I suspect the full sized egg would give better results as the fire source is further removed from the base. Next time I will build the fire in a more doughnut shape to lower the stone temperature and increase the cavity temp. This is far beyond the capacity of most domestic ovens although my AEG Steam Pro with the stone was also excellent but without quite the blistering achieved by my egg.

In terms of the topping. The simpler the better for me. Pizza is more about the base than the topping. You need to taste the wheat flavour developed by a long, slow leavening. I like crushed tinned Italian tomatoes. De Cecco Pomodoro S.Marzano Dell’Agro Sarnese-Nocerino D.O.P were excellent. I blended them using a wand blender, seasoned with a tsp of salt per tin and 1/2 tsp sugar, then let them drain for 2 hours in a fine strainer to remove the bulk of the tomato water (don’t discard. It serves as the base for and excellent Bloody Mary). Spread a small amount on the base and smear it over the surface evenly. I added the finest slivers of fresh garlic and a splash of extra virgin olive oil. It took around 4 minutes. Make sure you set a timer. At 5 minutes it will be toast. I topped it with very fresh Buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil. A variation you’ll see in the video below is Ortiz anchovies and tiny Ligurian olives

• 1kg stoneground whole-wheat flour or strong unbleached bakers flour

• 550g water

• 8g compressed yeast (fresh cake yeast – available from delis and health food stores) or 3g powdered yeast

• 20g salt

• 30g extra virgin olive oil

  1. Place flour in a mixer bowl with a dough hook attachment. Turn on low to medium speed and add 500ml of water. Keep mixing until the water has been absorbed but the dough is still rough. Turn machine off and let sit for 20 minutes.

  2. Dissolve yeast in remaining 50ml water. Turn mixer on to medium and add the dissolved yeast, mix for two minutes, then add the salt, mix for two minutes more, and finally add the olive oil. Keep mixing for another six minutes at this speed. Turn the speed up a little and mix for two minutes more. A good way to check elasticity is to stretch a piece of dough and if it forms a strong, transparent membrane (similar to blowing a bubble with gum), without breaking, it is ready.

  3. Let dough sit covered in cling film for 30 minutes in winter or 15 minutes in summer before forming the dough balls.

  4. Form dough balls of around 250g each. Place balls on a high sided non-stick tray and cover with cling film but make sure the balls don't touch the cover. Let sit to rise for 60 minutes at 20-24C.

  5. After resting, place in refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 18 hours if possible. Remove from refrigerator and leave at ambient temperature for two to four hours (less in summer and more in winter) before shaping to make your pizza (see step-by-step gallery above).

  6. Before beginning to prepare the pizza, the oven has to come to temperature. Shape the pizza using a little flour and add the toppings of your choice.

  7. In a wood-fired oven, with floor temperature between 360-400C, a pizza will take around 90 seconds to cook. The pizza is put directly onto the oven floor to cook, thereby getting an immediate "lift". In a domestic oven, my suggestion is to find a large terracotta tile that fits onto an oven rack. Place the rack on the bottom rung of your oven and the tile on top, giving you plenty of room above to manipulate the pizza. Turn to full heat without using any fan-forced function and let oven run for at least 20-30 minutes to heat the tile completely.

  8. When the pizza is ready, use a floured paddle to take it from the bench onto the tile. Close oven immediately. At around 250-280C your pizza will take five to eight minutes to cook, depending on your oven temperature. It will have a crisp, bread-like texture no less delicious than the wood-fired version.

  Makes 6 pizzas at 250g each.

Snapper Hot Pot

This is from a recipe adapted for the March 2020 issue of Selector Magazine You can replace ingredients if needs be, just be sure to replace apples with apples (if you know what I mean).

Serves 6

• 1 tablespoon sesame oil

• 1 brown onion, sliced into thin strips

• 1 teaspoon salt flakes

• 1 teaspoon sansho pepper

• 1 litre Chicken Stock

• 2 small parsnips, peeled and diced

• 1 small celeriac, peeled and diced 

• 2 small turnips , peeled and diced

• 3 kipfler potatoes, peeled and diced

• 75ml mirin

• 75ml sake

• 100ml Japanese white soy sauce 

• 2 teaspoons muscavado sugar 

• 3 eggs, lightly beaten

• 100g plain flour 

• 6 x 180g snapper fillets, skin off, pin-boned

• 50g butter

• 3 fresh shiitake

1. Add sesame oil to a large frying pan over medium heat.

2. Add onion, salt and sansho pepper and cook until onion is translucent.

3. Add Chicken Stock, parsnip, celeriac, turnip, potato, bring to the boil, 

4. skim to remove any froth that has floated to the top.

5. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, until vegetables are tender.

6. Stir in mirin, sake, soy sauce and sugar. 

7. Taste and add more salt if needed.

8. Place eggs in one bowl and sift flour into a second bowl.

9. Cut each snapper fillet into 3 pieces.

10. Dip the fish into the flour then the egg 

11. Heat butter in a non-stick frying pan and fry fish for about 2-3 minutes, until golden on both sides.

12. Sprinkle lightly with salt, then add to the soup and cook for a further 2-3 minutes, 

13. Meanwhile, pour the remaining egg into the frying pan to make a very thin omelette.

14. Turn over then turn out onto a board, cut into thin slices and add to the soup.

15. Serve immediately